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We’re regularly being told that due to our terrible economic climate people are spending less on eating out – dinner parties at home are as popular now as they were in the 70s.

So it smacks of great bravery that anyone has opened their doors for the first time in the past two years. It’s no secret that the restaurant industry is a precarious game but experience clearly pays off, as does tapping into the latest trends.

The wine bar – that 1980s favourite – looks to be on the verge of making a comeback with deliciously modern twist. Plateau is just such a place, a haven full to the brim of wine carefully chosen by the brilliant in-house sommeliers, many of which are organic, teamed with a tantalising menu of French/Spanish fusion tapas.

Having already opened the much-celebrated Mange Tout a few years ago, Vincent Le Bon and his business partner further cemented their glowing culinary reputation in Brighton with the opening of Plateau in just before Christmas. He opened at a time when everyone had already booked their festive parties but still he managed to fill every table.

Located in the South Lanes, opposite the Town Hall, its ethos is ‘Bistronomy’. Never heard of the word before? That’s no surprise as it’s made up but unlike most new additions to the English language, I happen to approve of this one. Bistonomy describes food cooked to the highest gastronomic principles but in a relaxed bistro atmosphere –  from a glass of wine and accompanying tapas, to a casual lunch or three-course dinner.

Plateau’s quickly become popular largely due to the laid back nature created, with many popping in for a few hours to share a bottle of wine and some delicious tapas. The wine list boasts nearly 100 wines, with a regular overhaul every few weeks, adding new ones to match the changes in the menu.

I’d struggle to think of few better ways to spend an afternoon. We decided to start with the plateau de charcuterie, a collection of cured meats and home-made terrines (without all the horrible jelly) (£9.50), while sipping a glass of the Beaujolais.

We chose a number of other dishes to share, which the sommelier matched perfectly with a few different glasses of wine, explaining exactly why the combinations were so brilliantly compatible.  Every dish has been carefully designed, ensuring a true balance of flavours, and presented with great precision and artistry.

I absolutely loved the calamari frito, whole baby octopus fried in a delicately crunchy semolina-crumb exterior, tasty enough on its own but divine when I popped a forkful in the sweet lime, mint and coriander dipping sauce (£5.00).

While the menu has clear French and Spanish leanings, there are definite Asian fusion tones on display, the edamame gnocchi, with saffron cream (£4.00) is just one example. Next up was crispy fried rabbit chunks in bread crumbs, with mustard and lemon (£5.50). It seemed to me to be a take on the chicken goujon but Vincent told me it was his way of re-inventing the chicken nugget! A surprisingly candid and unashamed comment from a man clearly not too scared to have his cuisine discussed in the same sentence as the scourge of the culinary world. And why should he be with one of the most innovative menus I have seen in a long time.

The platters represent great value at just £10 for the plateau de legumes (hummus, mushroom arancini, lentils & goat’s cheese, red wine poached quails eggs and pickled carrots. This really is a fabulous sharing platter to have over a few glasses of wine.

If you’re looking for a heartier meal, you’ll find a number of French classics available like grilled bavette steak, chips, slow roasted tomatoes, béarnaise sauce (£11.00), confit of duck leg, chorizo, butternut squash and lentil cassoulet (£12.00) and braised river trout with almonds and mustard greens and fine beans (£11.00).

Desserts come in at £5 each, which is rather reasonable, and include classic crème caramel, pot de chocolat, hazelnut and coffee, and honey & yogurt panna cotta, with fresh blueberries.

Plateau, 1 Bartholomews, Brighton, BN1 1HG, Brighton. Tel: 01273 733085.